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item Cardamone, Jeanette
item Nunez, Alberto

Submitted to: Textile Research Journal
Publication Type: Peer Reviewed Journal
Publication Acceptance Date: 8/29/2003
Publication Date: 6/1/2004
Citation: Cardamone, J.M., Yao, J., Nunez, A. 2004. Dcca shrinkproofing of wool - part i: the importance of antichlorination. Textile Research Journal. 74(6):555-560.

Interpretive Summary: Wool fabrics are limited in use because of shrinkage and skin discomfort. These problems arise from the outer layer of the fiber that is composed of protruding scales. We established treatment conditions to smooth the scales of wool without affecting the interior of the fiber. With dichloroisocyanuric acid (DCCA) treatment at room temperature we selectively oxidized the surface of the fiber to affect the bonding between the outer layer and the underlying membrane. This resulted in conferring shrinkage resistance without loss in physical properties, though applications of 20% DCCA by weight of fiber and higher concentrations resulted in loss of fabric whiteness. Smoothing wool's surface to alleviate shrinkage will increase use and performance, thereby enabling wool to realize a greater market share.

Technical Abstract: Treatment conditions for the selective smoothing of the scales of wool to control shrinkage without affecting the inner cortex of the fiber have been established. Treatment of wool fabrics with sodium salt of dichloroisocyanuric acid (DCCANa) at room temperature conferred negative charge on the fiber cuticle. This oxidative shrink-resist process is based on the sulfitolysis conversion of cysteine to S-sulfonate anions (cysteic acid). The process affected the fatty acid monolayer of 18-MEA attached to the underlying membrane connected to the exocuticle. There were no losses in mechanical properties, although loss in whiteness was apparent when 20% DCCA on weight of fabric was employed. DCCANa applied in citric acid buffer at pH 4.1, room temperature, 60 minutes, controlled dimensional stability without losses in fabric weight, thickness, moisture regain, and dyeability.