ARS | Publication request: Feruloylated Soybean Oil: Novel Soy-Based Cosmeceuticals

Submitted to: Meeting Abstract
Publication Type: Abstract Only
Publication Acceptance Date: March 16, 2007
Publication Date: April 11, 2007
Citation: Compton, D.L., Kenar, J.A., Laszlo, J.A. 2007. Feruloylated soybean oil: Novel soy-based cosmeceuticals [abstract]. International Seminar - Soybean: Renewable Resource for Industrial Non-Food Uses. Abstract No. 17.

Technical Abstract: We have synthesized novel, lipid-based cosmeceutical ingredients by incorporating ferulic acid onto the glycerol backbone of soybean oil. Ferulic acid is present in nature esterified to other plant components, such as the hemicellulose and lignin fractions of plant cell walls, as well as in the waxy surfaces of leaves, and occurs naturally in our food supply. Ferulic aid would be a preferred cosmeceutical ingredient except for its low solubility in organic phases and its propensity to yellow when applied to the skin. We were able to deliver the cosmeceutical benefits of ferulic acid to cosmetic and skin-care formulations through its esterification to soybean oil. The transesterification of soybean oil with ferulic acid ethyl ester adheres to the tenants of green chemistry. The synthesis was conducted using a backed-bed bioreactor with soybean oil as the solvent. The lipase catalyst was recycled over an eight week period, and by-products were separated and, subsequently, converted to product. The resultant feruloylated soybean oil (F-SBO) possesses broad range UV absorbance (290 to 370 nm) and antioxidative properties, making it a potential substitute for petroleum-based cosmeceutical ingredients. Applications and commercialization of the patented F-SBO will be discussed. The UV-absorbing efficacy of the F-SBO was greatly improved by its encapsulation as microdroplets within a starch matrix via steam jet cooking. Irradiance measurements through thin films of starch-encapsulated F-SBO showed improved UV absorbance and stability using half the quantity of F-SBO than when using non-starch encapsulated F-SBO.