Investigation of naturally derived UV absorbers for potential use in consumer products

Authors: Thompson, Aubri; Hart-Cooper, William; Cunniffe, Julia; JOHNSON, KAJ - Method Products, Pbc; Orts, William

Submitted to: ACS Sustainable Chemistry & Engineering
Publication Type: Peer Reviewed Journal
Publication Acceptance Date: 6/3/2021
Publication Date: 6/27/2021
Citation: Thompson, A.J., Hart-Cooper, W.M., Cunniffe, J.C., Johnson, K., Orts, W.J. 2021. nvestigation of naturally derived UV absorbers for potential use in consumer products. ACS Sustainable Chemistry & Engineering. 9(27):9085-9092. https://doi.org/10.1021/acssuschemeng.1c02504.
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1021/acssuschemeng.1c02504

Interpretive Summary: Topical sunscreens are widely used to prevent sunburns and long-term skin damage including cancer. Recently, conventional chemical UV absorbers have been criticized and in some cases banned for adverse human and environmental health impacts -- some sunscreen products have been shown to be detrimental to coral reef sustainability. In this investigation, we evaluated naturally derived UV absorbers including vitamins, polyphenols, carotenoids, and amino acids to determine their safety and efficacy Human and ecological hazards were tested, along with the sun protection factor for these substances. These attributes were compared to standard commercial UV absorbers (i.e., octinoxate and oxybenzone) to determine the viability of these greener ingredients in personal care products. We found that resveratrol, ferulic acid, and ethyl ferulate demonstrate significant UV-absorbing capacity and lower hazard levels compared to current-use sunscreen active ingredients.

Technical Abstract: Topical sunscreens are widely used to prevent sunburns and long-term skin damage including cancer. Recently, conventional chemical UV absorbers have been criticized and in some cases banned for adverse human and environmental health impacts. In this investigation, we evaluated naturally derived UV absorbers including vitamins, polyphenols, carotenoids, and amino acids to determine safety and efficacy profiles. Human and ecological hazards were evaluated, as well as the in vitro sun protection factor and critical wavelength. These attributes were compared to commercial UV absorbers such as octinoxate and oxybenzone to determine viability in personal care products. We found that resveratrol, ferulic acid, and ethyl ferulate demonstrate significant UV-absorbing capacity and lower hazard levels compared to current-use sunscreen active ingredients.