ARS | Publication request: Fiber properties of saw and roller ginned naturally colored cottons

Submitted to: Journal of Cotton Science
Publication Type: Peer Reviewed Journal
Publication Acceptance Date: June 9, 2009
Publication Date: July 15, 2009
Citation: Funk, P.A., Gamble, G.R. 2009. Fiber properties of saw and roller ginned naturally colored cottons. Journal of Cotton Science. 13:166-173.

Interpretive Summary: Naturally colored cottons enjoyed tremendous, though brief, popularity about 15 years ago. Because of both the environmental and economic advantages of not dyeing textiles, the market for naturally colored cottons persists and grows. The main obstacle at present is ginning: these fibers are shorter and therefore more difficult to process, and concerns regarding contamination of white fiber have led to severe regulations. This test compares fiber quality properties of two naturally colored cottons after roller and saw ginning. The results will help producers and their customers make an informed economic decision regarding which type of dedicated ginning system to construct for exclusively processing naturally colored cottons.

Technical Abstract: Naturally colored cottons have economic and environmental appeal because they do not require dyeing, but their fibers are not as long as white cottons. To determine the best ginning process two Upland (/G. hirsutim/) colors were roller and saw ginned following a complete block experimental design. HVI and AFIS analysis favored roller ginning. It resulted in 0.7 mm greater HVI fiber lengths and 33% fewer AFIS fiber neps compared to saw ginning. This increase in fiber value may justify the higher cost of roller ginning.