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ARS Home » Southeast Area » New Orleans, Louisiana » Southern Regional Research Center » Cotton Structure and Quality Research » Research » Publications at this Location » Publication #248877
Title: White Speck, A Dye Defect in Mechanically and Hand Picked Cottons

Author
item Bel, Patricia
item XU, BUGAO - University Of Texas

Submitted to: National Cotton Council Beltwide Cotton Conference
Publication Type: Proceedings
Publication Acceptance Date: 2/8/2010
Publication Date: 3/25/2011
Citation: Bel, P., Xu, B. 2011. White Speck, A Dye Defect in Mechanically and Hand Picked Cottons.Proceedings of 2011 National Cotton Council Beltwide Cotton Conference, Jan 4-7, Atlanta,GA. p 1245-1257.2011 CDROM

Interpretive Summary: White specks are dye defects that can be inherent to the variety or can be caused by weather or other field conditions. Research shows that mechanical processing from field to fabric affects the white speck levels. This research looks at a series of studies that control certain aspects of processing and shows the changes that processing can cause in white speck levels. The preliminary results comparing stripper picked, spindle picked and hand picked cottons can only compare fiber data. The cottons from different methods of picking were not processed identically so the fabrics can’t be compared on equal footing. SRRC is building a database with fiber from around the world and to actually compare these cottons we need to run 2 lb lots on the SRRC Mini-spinning system. If the fiber to fabric processing protocol is held constant, a large data base can be established and then quality predictions can be developed from high speed fiber measurements, yarn and fabric data. Once a White Speck Potential (WSP) value can be developed from this type of research, the WSP would indicate if a fiber could be problematic. Bales with high WSP can be put into a special class for whites only, or use for combed or rotor spin yarns (both processes remove white specks), maximizing the fiber's potential and minimizing mill losses due to white specks.

Technical Abstract: The textile industry is often caught off guard by white specks showing up in dyed fabrics. The current grading system does not always pick up the level of maturity that causes white specks. Research using international cottons is aimed at finding high-speed measurement systems that can be used to predict the white speck potential of bale cotton. Cottons were gathered from the following countries: Australia, Brazil, China, Pakistan, Turkey, Uganda, the United State, Uzbekistan and Zimbabwe. Ultimately a White Speck Potential (WSP) measurement could be included in the HVI data that the mills currently use to buy cottons. By knowing the WSP, mills could eliminate white speck dye problems and still use those cottons for their other fiber properties and produce whites or pastels where the dyeability of the cotton is not a problem. The cottons with a high WSP can also be combed or rotor spun to minimize white specks. This will also be a useful tool for breeders so they can eliminate new varieties that are prone to high WSP early on in the breeding process.