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Contents
Faster, Better Food Analysis

A high-performance liquid chromatography system allows ARS chemist Gary Beecher
to measure individual flavonoids in black tea and other beverages and food
extracts.
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Amid the rolling terrain of the Beltsville (Maryland) Agricultural Research
Center, where Agricultural Research
Service scientists work to build better food crops and animals, sits the
Food Composition Laboratory (FCL) building. There, chemists take food
apart--molecule by molecule. They work to develop and refine methods that will
allow other chemists to measure the nutrients and contaminants among the
thousands of compounds in foods.
"We're in the business of describing the components in American
foods," says James M. Harnly, who is head of the lab. "Many times,
the analytical methods for specific components are lacking or inaccurate. We
adapt existing technology or develop new technology based on needs."
FCL's customers include commodity groups, commercial analytical
laboratories, instrument companies, AOAC International (formerly the
Association of Official Analytical Chemists), and several federal agencies, as
well as other USDA laboratories and agencies. Ultimately, the work of FCL
chemists sharpens and adds to the values in USDA's
national nutrient
database. Maintained by ARS' Nutrient Data Laboratory in Riverdale,
Maryland, the database is the foundation for all U.S. food composition data.
Nancy J. Miller-Ihli recently responded to one FCL customer by producing a
far more sensitive graphite furnace method for detecting lead in sugar and
sweeteners. It can be used with a wide range of commercial atomic absorption
spectrometers, she says.
The Food Chemicals Codex (FCC) committee, which is under the National
Academy of Sciences' Food and Nutrition Board, wanted to lower the acceptable
limits of lead in sugar and corn syrup because of the large amounts consumed,
says Miller-Ihli.

Chemist Nancy Miller-Ihli prepares to load sugar samples for graphite furnace
atomic absorption analysis. Along with colleague Ella Greene, she developed a
highly sensitive and convenient lead-detection method.
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But there's no sense in lowering the limits from 500 parts per billion to
100 ppb if analytical methods can't detect 100 nanograms (billionths of a gram)
of lead in 1 gram of sugar. So they approached Miller-Ihli for help in
developing a sufficiently sensitive method.
The acid-digestion method Miller-Ihli developed with the help of chemist
Ella Greene is even more sensitive than was called for: It can detect just 10
ppb. Both FCC and the International Commission on Uniform Methods for Sugar
Analysis have adopted it as their official method. Not only is this a much
easier, direct method that's 10 times more sensitive than the official method,
"It saves time and avoids potential sample contamination," says
Greene.
The atomic absorption spectrometer with graphite furnace atomization is one
of the most sensitive instruments for identifying and measuring elements. But
it has one drawback: It traditionally measures only one element at a time. As
the research community became interested in more than a few trace elements,
Harnly and co-workers developed technology to measure 16 elements
simultaneously.
In the meantime, other technology has come on the market that can analyze
multiple elements simultaneously and is as sensitive as atomic absorption
spectroscopy. However, these other instruments are currently much more costly,
says Harnly. He hopes a small venture company will turn this research into a
marketable alternative.
Harnly and Miller-Ihli are two of six research chemists in FCL who oversee
individual projects. The research chemists are supported by four chemists with
temporary appointments and five support chemists.
In developing methods, Harnly notes, "we have to take into account that
a food compound can have many forms. Some are more biologically active than
others. If you want to have a definitive method, you need to know how the body
uses the different forms." That's why FCL chemists are working to
distinguish among the different forms of the vitamins folate and niacin and of
the trace elements iron, cobalt, and selenium.
With help from chemist Gary R. Beecher, chemist Robert F. Doherty is
developing a chemical method to distinguish between the three or four major
forms of folate, including folic acid, which is now used to fortify grain
products. Laboratories currently use a microbiological assay to measure total
folate, says Beecher. "Our concern is to get values for individual folates
for the USDA food composition database using modern instrumentation."
For commercial laboratories, the new method must be simple and
straightforward and use equipment that is commercially available. Doherty and
Beecher should have a chemical analysis for the folate forms ready in about a
year.
Finding the Phytonutrients
FCL is in the forefront of the emerging field of phytonutrients, thanks in
part to its collaboration with the National Cancer Institute (NCI) and the
National Heart, Lung, and Blood Institute (NHLBI). Scientists worldwide are
searching for the active plant compounds--or phytonutrients--that are behind
the lower incidence of cancer and cardiovascular disease in populations that
eat plenty of fruits, vegetables, and other plant foods.
Abby Ershow, nutrition program officer for NHLBI, says her agency has
supported FCL's research since its beginning in the 1970s, because sound
dietary advice rests on good analytical methods.

A custom-built atomic absorption spectrometer allows chemist Jim Harnly to
detect trace elements in foods. Here he examines the pipette tip of the
graphite furnace atomizer's autosampler.
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"For example," Ershow asks, "should women going through
menopause eat soybean products every day? Can soy products serve as replacers
for synthetic estrogen? Nobody is quite sure yet," she says, "because
there are different forms of phytoestrogens in different foods. Until you have
the methods to take the foods apart and link the shape of that molecule to the
biological effect, you can't give good guidance. The FCL chemists are right in
the middle of that issue."
Earlier this decade, the National Cancer Institute wanted to know more about
carotenoids in the diet. Evidence was mounting that these red, orange, and
yellow pigments--such as beta carotene and lycopene--were protective. Under
Beecher's direction, FCL chemists sorted through more than 40 carotenoids in
foods.
They found that only about a half dozen are consumed in significant amounts
and absorbed by the body and, thus, are biologically important. [See
"Plant Pigments Paint a Rainbow of Antioxidants," Agricultural
Research, November 1996, pp.4-6, and "Data You Can Trust," May
1995, p.15.] As a result of the FCL research, the Nutrient Data Laboratory
(NDL) published a table of the five prominent carotenoids in commonly eaten
foods.
Beecher then turned his attention to a loose-knit family of compounds--the
flavonoids--some of which reportedly reduce risk of cardiovascular disease and
cancer. Among the thousands of flavonoids in nature, Beecher suspects about 20
to 25 are common in frequently consumed fruits, vegetables, and other plant
foods. Chemist Howard Merken came on board last spring to develop a single
method to measure the prominent flavonoids in a range of foods.
"We decided which were important from scattered data from horticultural
science, as well as from diet and health data from other countries,"
Beecher says, noting that a primary criterion was the compound's antioxidant
activity. "Whether that's the protective activity, we don't know."
Reading Tea Leaves
Oddly enough, the first foray of these analytical minds into flavonoid
chemistry was in reading tea leaves. Beecher and chemist William Bronner
measured catechins in different types of tea. The most consumed beverage
worldwide, tea is the only food product known to contain significant levels of
these potent antioxidant flavonoids.
Analyses showed "there's a huge difference in catechin content among
black teas in the bag," says Beecher. Instant (powdered) tea mixes have
little or no catechins. Bottled teas and herbal teas lack them entirely.
Beecher's group is now examining two types of estrogen-mimicking compounds.
The best known are isoflavones from soy products like tofu, tempeh, and soy
concentrates and isolates added to many foods. A less studied group, the
lignans, come from flax, rye, and some nuts and beans.
The chemists are generating data for a table of isoflavone values being
compiled by the NDL. Beecher says the analytical methodology for isoflavones
had already been worked out by Patricia Murphy at Iowa State University.
"But we analytical chemists are way behind on methodology for
lignans."
Beecher is also working with Myron Gross at the University of Minnesota to
study how specific flavonoids affect early indicators of cardiovascular
disease. The indicators include blood clotting and oxidation of LDL
cholesterol--the artery-clogging form.
"Gary is providing a detailed characterization of the foods and
flavonoid-containing food extracts we use in feeding studies," says Gross.
"He probably knows more about food flavonoids than anyone in the
country."
Food's Gold
Less than one-half ounce of the "typical American
diet"--homogenized, freeze dried, and characterized for the major
nutrients and 31 trace elements--sells for only $445. And that's a bargain.
The cost of preparing and analyzing Standard Reference Material (SRM) 1548a
(Typical Diet) was $198,000, says Jennifer Colbert, project manager for SRMs at
the National Institutes of Standards and Technology. She says the price of an
SRM depends on the total cost of materials and labor divided by the number of
units.
SRMs are the "gold standard" of analytical chemistry, says Wayne
R. Wolf of the ARS Food Composition Laboratory (FCL) at Beltsville, Maryland.
Chemists use these certified materials to validate new or improved analytical
methods and to establish values for less expensive reference materials used in
day-to-day quality control in the food industry.
SRMs with a chemical makeup similar to the foods being analyzed are so
important to research that Wolf has taken a lead in coordinating their
development. In 1993, he founded a technical division of the AOAC International
to help make reference materials more available. That includes identifying the
nutrients that need to be certified and the range of foods necessary to
represent the entire U.S. food supply. "He knows where the standards are
needed," says Colbert.
Wolf helped launch an SRM made of infant formula. "There were no
food-based materials for vitamins when we started putting this together,"
he says. With a price tag of $216 for ten 30-gram packets, SRM 1846 (Infant
Formula) has values for 12 minerals and 17 vitamins. Since it also contains
folate values, it can be used by millers and bakers--who are now required by
law to fortify most grain products with the vitamin--to ensure adequate folate
enrichment of their products.
Ultimately, says Wolf, the accuracy of food labels and nutrient data rests
on food-based SRMs.--By Judy
McBride, Agricultural Research Service Information Staff.
James M. Harnly,
Nancy J. Miller-Ihli,
Gary R. Beecherand
Wayne R. Wolf are at the USDA-ARS
Food Composition
Laboratory, Bldg. 161, 10300 Baltimore Ave., Beltsville, MD 20705-2350;
phone (301) 504-8356, fax (301) 504-8314.
"Faster, Better Food Analysis" was published in the
December 1998 issue of
Agricultural Research magazine.
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